Goldin’s Cascadian Frechette Willamette Week’s Favorite — May 23, 2012

Willamette Week
May 23, 2012

Chevre Off

GOT OUR GOAT: Picking an Oregon chevre. — Image: WW Staff

We had wine on our minds. Then we got a little hungry, so we staged a raid on the cheese case at Irvington’s Foster & Dobbs specialty foods store. What should you pair with an Oregon pinot noir? Five tasters put eight wildly varied types of hard and soft Oregon goat cheese through a blind taste-off. Here are the cheesemakers’ claims and our tasting notes.

Pur Et Simple

Goldin Artisan Goat Cheese, Molalla, $30 per pound.

They say: “A slightly cakey paste that nonetheless breaks down unctuously in the mouth.”
We say: “A runny, goopy cheese.”
“It has a certain goatiness to it, but it’s not as strong as I would want it to be.”

Capricorns

Tumalo Farms, Bend, $32.50 per pound.

They say: “The occasional pop of pepper just accentuates the smooth flavor.”
We say: “The flavor’s so strong that it’s pointless to pair it with wine.”
“This would make a great grilled cheese.”

Tumalo Tomme

Juniper Grove Farm, Redmond, $27.95 per pound.

They say: “Pleasantly salty with a sweet, slightly nutty flavor that lingers.”
We say: “This one’s a flop.”
“Sharp in a bad way. Acidic and yuck.”

Redmondo

Juniper Grove Farm, Redmond, $31.95 per pound.

They say: “Terrific for noshing, grating over pasta and shaving onto salads.”
We say: “Tastes like baking soda, or toothpaste.”
“I wouldn’t put this on anything I liked.”

Cascadian Frechette

Goldin Artisan Goat Cheese, Molalla, $30 per pound.

They say: “Pair with crisp, light, effervescent whites that won’t overpower this delicate cheese.”
We say: “A damn fine cheese. It’s soft but has rich flavor.”
“This is what I want on my Little Big Burger.”

Cumin Tomme

Juniper Grove Farm, Redmond, $28.95 per pound.

They say: “Subtle hints of cumin fly by on the finish of this grassy tomme.”
We say: “Tastes like it was left out in the sun, in the dirt.”
“A goaty-ass cheese.”

Certoux

Goldin Artisan Goat Cheese, Molalla, $30 per pound.

They say: “Tangy and bright with a delicious saltiness and wisps of wet stone and mineral flavors.”
We say: “Goes well with wine.”
“Refreshing; almost like an after-dinner palate cleanse, but not in the toothpaste way.”

Tomme Cuivrée

Goldin Artisan Goat Cheese, Molalla, $30 per pound.

They say: “The supple paste has a rich mouthfeel under the slightly toothsome thin rind.”
We say: “Nice texture. Creamy, with beautiful edges and a nice crust.”
“Good with a little red.”

OUR PICK: Cascadian Frechette, a delicate, semi-firm cheese, paired with either white or a light, fruity red wine.

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